One of the things I miss about living in Sasebo is being surrounded by the historic and still used remains of a century old naval arsenal. In the majestic herd of towering cranes that rise over ancient red brick warehouses…
The Well-Traveled Equestrian Statue of Yamagata Aritomo
The statue of an age-wearied field marshal astride his horse guards the entrance to Hagi Chuo Park. Perhaps he’s scrutinizing files on parade or gazing upon a battlefield, though these days his only remaining enemies are pigeons and errant…
Lit Up on Electric Brandy in Asakusa
(This article was written based on a visit to the bar in early January 2020 and concludes our Meiji and Taisho-era drinking trilogy. Please read responsibly.) One of my favorite Japanese drinks is neither a beer, nor traditional sake or…
Taisho-era Cocktail Hour in Tokyo
After learning about the beers drank in the Meiji and Taisho eras, the next logical step was to learn about the eras’ cocktails. The recipes for mixing liquor travel well and last a really long time compared to beers. To…
Meiji and Taisho-era Beer Drinking Today!
There are many ways to tangibly learn about the past. We can visit restored or preserved old buildings kept as they would have been a century ago, ride steam locomotives pulling vintage cars or participate in reenactments where everyone involved…
Mojiko II: The National and International Port
This is the second and final part of a series on Mojiko, Kitakyushu. Mojiko’s waterside is a quiet place with a park like atmosphere most notable for its unobstructed view of Shimonoseki across the Kanmon Strait and being a place…
Mojiko I: Taisho Roman Town
In the early 20th century Yokohama and Kobe were Japan’s first and second most important ports, places through which new foreign goods flowed and passengers embarked vessels to go abroad and discover new ideas and those coming to bring them…
Sakura Wars’ Imperial Capital: The Tokyo That Was (and Wasn’t)
Updated Dec. 20, 2021: All Google Maps images removed and replaced with photos from my recent visit to Tokyo! We’re exploring the Imperial Capital (Teito) of Sakura Wars, a unique take on Tokyo’s past reinvented with a steam punk aesthetic…
Living in Taisho’s Tokyo: Shitamachi Museum and Kamiya Bar
Divided by a rigid caste system until the Meiji Restoration, Edo was stratified between those who lived in Yamanote, the lords and samurai, and Shitamachi, the more common classes such as craftsman and merchants. Shitamachi means “low town” which refers…
Visiting Old Tokyo at the Edo-Tokyo Tatemono
Tokyo is a place constantly in change. Buildings rise and fall, little is sacred, but if you want to see a little bit of that Old Tokyo that’s mostly escaped us and learn about the great city’s past in…