This article was originally published in Stripes Japan; ideally I’ll do full blown pieces on each of these locations. Plus Meiji-mura, again. Nagoya is an easy access point into Japan’s cultural heartland. It is also one which samurai armies fought…
Eight Minutes Over Nagoya: The Nagoya Garrison and the Doolittle Raid
Meiji-mura is an open air architectural park with dozens of architectural and still functional technological wonders from turn-of-the-century Japan. I came ready to see the era and even dressed in a yukata with fedora, like all the old Japanese men…
Taisho-era Cocktail Hour in Tokyo
After learning about the beers drank in the Meiji and Taisho eras, the next logical step was to learn about the eras’ cocktails. The recipes for mixing liquor travel well and last a really long time compared to beers. To…
Mojiko II: The National and International Port
This is the second and final part of a series on Mojiko, Kitakyushu. Mojiko’s waterside is a quiet place with a park like atmosphere most notable for its unobstructed view of Shimonoseki across the Kanmon Strait and being a place…
Mojiko I: Taisho Roman Town
In the early 20th century Yokohama and Kobe were Japan’s first and second most important ports, places through which new foreign goods flowed and passengers embarked vessels to go abroad and discover new ideas and those coming to bring them…
Sakura Wars’ Imperial Capital: The Tokyo That Was (and Wasn’t)
Updated Dec. 20, 2021: All Google Maps images removed and replaced with photos from my recent visit to Tokyo! We’re exploring the Imperial Capital (Teito) of Sakura Wars, a unique take on Tokyo’s past reinvented with a steam punk aesthetic…
Beauty and Tragedy at Arasaki Beach
This is the fifth and final entry in a series on the Himeyuri Student Corps and related war sites on Okinawa. My trip through southern Okinawa to visit the Himeyuri-related caves and tunnels ended not in a dark hole in…
Okinawa’s Hospital Caves: Where the Island’s Daughters Went to War
Though it can be read as a standalone article, this is the fourth in a series on the Himeyuri Student Corps and follows their story from Haebaru and Itokazu to the southern caves in Itoman and also looks at caves…
Himeyuri Corps: Female High School Student Nurses during the Battle of Okinawa
During World War II Japan expected everyone to do their part in securing the nation’s unquestionable ultimate victory and this included teenagers. On the mainland high school students were drafted en masse to work in munitions factories turning out weapons…
Living in Taisho’s Tokyo: Shitamachi Museum and Kamiya Bar
Divided by a rigid caste system until the Meiji Restoration, Edo was stratified between those who lived in Yamanote, the lords and samurai, and Shitamachi, the more common classes such as craftsman and merchants. Shitamachi means “low town” which refers…