In 1878, Japan was becoming a modern nation freeing itself of its feudal past. But what should be done with the men who fought and died to make that modern nation a reality, the samurai? In Last Samurai Standing, hundreds…
Meiji Maru and Monjayaki: Tokyo’s Free Museum Ship and Eating Tsukishima-Style
Meiji Maru is a ship with unique bragging rights- it’s the reason for a Japanese holiday. After the shogunate was deposed in 1868 and a new government took power, Japan began its rapid transition from feudalism to a modern industrial…
Take Me Home, Kyushu Roads: Seeing Japan’s Coal Country
In 1469 a Kyushu farmer made a bonfire in the wilderness which to his surprise set a black rock on fire. Centuries later, what started as a happy accident would go on to play a starring role in a critical…
The Well-Traveled Equestrian Statue of Yamagata Aritomo
The statue of an age-wearied field marshal astride his horse guards the entrance to Hagi Chuo Park. Perhaps he’s scrutinizing files on parade or gazing upon a battlefield, though these days his only remaining enemies are pigeons and errant…
Touring Old Japan
This article was originally published in Stripes Japan; ideally I’ll do full blown pieces on each of these locations. Plus Meiji-mura, again. Nagoya is an easy access point into Japan’s cultural heartland. It is also one which samurai armies fought…
Eight Minutes Over Nagoya: The Nagoya Garrison and the Doolittle Raid
Meiji-mura is an open air architectural park with dozens of architectural and still functional technological wonders from turn-of-the-century Japan. I came ready to see the era and even dressed in a yukata with fedora, like all the old Japanese men…
A Soldier of Kumamoto Castle: Tanimura Keisuke
If you ever visit Kumamoto Castle you’ll notice this statue inside without much explanation. The soldier’s name is Tanimura Keisuke and he served at the castle when it was besieged by Saigo Takamori’s rebels during the Satsuma Rebellion / Seinan…
Take a Virtual Tour of Old Tokyo!
Since the late unpleasantness has created barriers to travel for service members, virtual travel and tours of dream destinations have become increasingly popular. Using the internet we can watch videos and live vicariously thanks to those living where we want…
Riding in Meiji-style: The Imperial Carriages of Emperor Meiji
When the first train line opened between Tokyo and Yokohama on Oct. 14, 1872, one of the first passengers on the inaugural ride was Emperor Meiji (1852-1912). While it may have been one of his first train rides*, it was…
Hoichi the Earless and Lafcadio Hearn
Centuries ago in Akamagaseki on Honshu’s southern shore, lived a blind biwa (lute) player named Hoichi at Amidaji Temple. A skilled musician, it was said his musical rendition of the tragic tale of the Battle of Dan-no-ura could move even…